Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and visitors alike praising its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, UNESCO designated it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a prestigious list of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it joins a worldwide network of cities metropolises across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "demonstrates its deep-rooted culinary traditions and vibrant gastronomic culture," as stated by a representative from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this time-honored city comes as hardly a shock to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, bustling, and diverse city – the capital of India's biggest state – is now in the global gaze for what has consistently characterized its soul: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'What's for dinner, the method of preparation' is a ongoing conversation from morning until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and taken to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of gastronomic creativity, fusing Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was created to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just showcases local ingredients but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and carts – little-known treasures that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, served in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a simple joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and complicated. The artisan beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however note that their younger generation are reluctant to take up the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will motivate more people globally to discover these narratives and experience the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
